Kinder Aggugini–an exclusive interview

A brilliant and very unique Italian-born London-based designer, Kinder Aggugini studied at Saint Martins, worked with John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Donatella Versace as well as Costume National, Calvin Klein and Paul Smith.

Until his debut in February 2009, he was fashion editors’ best kept secret. The orders for redingotes, Chanel-inspired tweed jackets (Kinder once referred to his work as an unholy marriage of Coco Chanel and Sid Vicious), silk dresses and evening pea coats were placed privately and admired by the selected few.

Autumn / Winter 2008

Spring / Summer 2009

And then he came out bringing mix of romantic prints and structured garments to the London Fashion Week giving it an absolutely new and fresh dimension.

Spring / Summer 2011

His mind, just like a beautiful kaleidoscope made of rainbow pieces, creates dreams of a wearable kind. His collections, influenced by memories from his punk rock past and Italian heritage, love of books, music and art and his deep knowledge of fabrics  and techniques, are for those women who love ageless style, impeccable quality, have a sense of humour and enjoy of being a little bit unpredictable.

It was a very bold move for me to ask Kinder for an interview – he agreed (and made me feel incredible). Having his answers is like receiving a precious gift and I cannot thank him enough for sharing his time and thoughts with me.

Autumn / Winter 2012

When did fashion become a part of your life?

As far as I can remember I was always obsessed with fashion. In my teens I learned to make my own clothes and experimented with a number of looks. When my peers started asking to have what I was wearing I decided to figure how to do this forever.

Who has been the greatest influence on your career?

The Designers I worked for. I chose them because I found them inspiring and ultimately they shaped the way I design today.

What was working with Donatella like?

I had a great time. She’s one of the most generous kind and funny people I know. When I met her she said ”I didn’t formally train as a designer but I worked for 25 years with one of the best in the world, I must have learned something”. She was absolutely right.

What was the best lesson you’ve learned from working with Galliano?

I learned that cutting on the bias is not a standard rule, it can be done in multiple ways and each can have a distinctively different effect.

What do you think of first thing in the morning?

Since I started my own collection I always wake up with a mixture of concerns for all the things I haven’t done and the excitement for all I’m about to do.

What is the most fascinating thing about creating a collection?

It’s such a thrill to bring something into existence. From a simple thought to a three-dimensional object it truly gives me the greatest pleasure.

Do you still design with the music in your head playing like a sound track?

Always! I find music extremely stimulating. In the absence of anything playing in the room my head switches on.

You do come across as a music connoisseur – what are your favourite bands /artists?

Really hard to narrow it down I have such a varied love of music. This morning I thought of Bach - Double Violin Concerto in D Minor and a moment ago I had Skrillex – Breakn’a Sweat ringing in my head. I think my brain also functions as an iPod.

What are the top 3 things on your “Million things to-do list” right now?

Research. Fabric Selection. Accounts.

What is your fashion philosophy?

Bold fabrics in chic shapes. Bold shapes in chic fabrics. Always have a look.

***

5 things about Kinder:

Favourite dessert: Eaton Mess.

Best way to relax: Meditate or videogames.

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? Walking on Zabriskie Point.

Books or magazines? Books.

One of your guilty pleasures: I love Disco.

Photo source: Chris Brooks for Telegraph, aggugini.com, style.com